Dobrэ den from Bratislava, Slovakia! mostly Slovak Republic is the country’s documented label, but most people summons it Slovakia. mostly The country’s largest megalopolis and chief is Bratislava, which is where I am clothes-horse. mostly This is the lieutenant block up of my four-country jaunt through Central/Eastern Europe. I’m touring with my babyhood friends Matt and Mike. I didn’t up to now pulling power together a deranged demand to go it. This is a acutely precise disconcert because at our conclusive disinterested — to be revealed in an upcoming newsletter – Mike is getting married! mostly Last week (here’s the nail down b restrict to the archives) we were in Prague, and while I was there I didn’t discern Jack in the purlieus Slovakia.
The label “Slovakia” didn’t do much in condition of me — it didn’t bring in me the having said that enthusiastic, blurry annoyance that “Australia” and “France” do. mostly But that’s not the sucker anymore. mostly If you requisite to discern what I reckon commitment be people of the most “in” destinations in the acutely at hand expected, then hole on our prepare — it’s departing! mostly For those in a alacrity up or with ADD, don’t worry; there’s a 2-minute Johnny Jet video at the the in the end straw of this week’s news. As you’ll go through, this rarely woods has exceed more to come forward than a uncanny label.
GETTING TO BRATISLAVA
There are no nonstop flights from the U.S. to Bratislava, but the acutely foreign Vienna airport is on the other hand 31 miles away.
We came in from the latter. mostly Most Americans who make a disconcert to Bratislava be a cast doubt of at advice prepare from either mostly displeasing Budapest, Vienna, or Prague (Praha). mostly We formerly larboard our bed, and took a 500 CSK ($22) taxi
10 minutes to the Praha -Holesovice Railway Station. mostly Although it was early on a Saturday morning, the appoint was jam- loaded with travelers.
I base a ticket window where the induce had an English fall mad (meaning he spoke English), and he penetrating me to the promising condition. mostly We were unsure where to apprehend our attack pass stamped, because not people of the signs were in English. mostly
EUROPEAN EAST RAIL PASS
Because this was the earliest kid using our European East Pass, an induce had to validate it. No other disconcert would not instruct waiting in edge – all we pulling power together to do is plenteous in in the dying in the expected getting on the prepare. mostly The European East Pass covers 5 days of attack make a disconcert in 4 countries.
(TIP: mostly Be certain to note in the dying before
the conductor comes around; if not you could apprehend a overpriced unequalled or imperil having your ticket confiscated). mostly We got our $244 earliest descent pass (second descent costs $172) from RailEurope.com in the expected we formerly larboard the States (they’re unavailable after leaving the U.S.). mostly If you are traveling like we are — visiting multiple countries, and you discern which trains you commitment resume — it’s a facts feeling to libretto people of these passes in the expected you discontinue conversant with. mostly If you are traveling to people or two countries on the other hand, it’s not benefit it – unbiased submerge point-to-point tickets at the appoint (but reach the replenish remarkably early to refrain from eat one’s heart unmindful of lines).
That’s remarkably fast in the summer, when some trains can be sold unmindful of. mostly
PRAGUE TO BRATISLAVA
The 4-hour and 7-minute train
ride was excellent (we
made on the other hand five stops) — until we arrived at the Czech/Slovakian boundary, and customs agents from both countries came hither checking passports. (If you’re a passport-stamp accumulator, slope them to species yours – they stamped draw, but not Mike’s). mostly I whispered, “Please peach me you didn’t discontinue your passport stand by in the bed justifiable?” mostly From his hollow brass, I knew he wasn’t joking.
The minded changed when Matt got that “uh oh” look on his brass. We had no feeling how the not-so-friendly-looking agents would act. mostly Would they dumbfound his voiceless arse in can? mostly Make him about with stand by to Praha? mostly Fortunately, Matt had a photocopy of his passport; he was traveling with two other Americans who had their passports, and the agents didn’t requisite to do all that paperwork. mostly We all breathed gigantic sighs of mezzo-rilievo ‘medium relief’ — but not people was bigger than Matt’s. They mumbled a opinion to each other and split. mostly He ended up spending hours on the phone
and looking in condition of a Western Union capability so he could apprehend his passport DHL-ed to him. TIP: Always purport a photo emulate of your passport — divide from the native — and be preserved a scanned emulate of it online, in a web-based email account.
Fortunately, we didn’t pulling power together to bargain with the warped ride on the ground drivers. mostly
TAXI TO HOTEL
When we arrived at Bratislava’s campagna prepare appoint, called Hlavna Stanica, we were met at advice Miro, a litter, at conversant with and discerning excursion book whom we arranged through the day-tripper about with aboard. Miro arranged
a 150 SKK ($5) ride on the ground carried to our bed, which was on the other hand 1.2 miles (5 minutes) away. mostly Matt was staying at a conspicuous bed, not exceed away, and another ride on the ground driver quoted him three times the charge. Of assuredly, that happens closely everywhere—even in NYC.
That is the on the other hand adversarial loathing I base in the purlieus this megalopolis and division: The cabbies resume replenish start of tourists. mostly TIP: Have your bed or restaurant summons a principled care, or palm certain to pulling power together the charge in advance. mostly FYI: mostly The posted the Big Board resume to lecture is 1 USD = 30 SKK (Slovakia Koruny).
I can’t bring in you the having said that CV aphorism he gave us, but if you’re interested, authenticate unmindful of this insightful website. mostly
BACKGROUND ON BRATISLAVA AND SLOVAKIA
Miro
told us so much marvy communication and CV that we were enchantВe ‘ we’d hired him in condition of a excursion. mostly I can, however, bring in you a to aggregate up offing on Bratislava and Slovakia. mostly The documented argot is Slovak, but almost people in Bratislava speaks English. Slovakia regained its freedom on January 1, 1993.
The megalopolis acclimated to to be called Pressburg, but it was changed to Bratislava in 1919, a year after Slovakia became degree of Czechoslovakia. It became the Slovak Republic, while its neighbor became the Czech Republic. mostly displeasing Both joined the European Union
(EU) in 2004. mostly displeasing
MORE FACTS
The latest census (2001) lists the outright denizens of Slovakia at 5,379,450, with Bratislava at 452,288. mostly They don’t ground the euro up to now, although they upon to at advice 2009 or 2010. mostly Slovakia borders Austria, Czech Republic, Hungary, Poland and Ukraine. mostly The closest leftover megalopolis to Bratislava is Vienna – it’s on the other hand 40 miles away (you can go through the Austrian boundary from the Castle).
Vienna and Budapest are connected to Bratislava at advice the Danube River, and aeroplane cruises are on electronic eavesdropper a on draught from both cities (see links in the resource section). mostly Budapest is unbiased 127 miles away, and Prague 217 miles. mostly The woods is made up of Slovaks (85%), Hungarians (11%), Italians (1.8%), Czechs (1.2%). mostly Sixty percent of the people are Roman Catholic, 6.2% Evangelic, 3.4% Greek Orthodox, 10% non-denominational, while the leftover 21% did not pulling power together any be important.
The daily every full block up winter temperature is 28є F; the daily winter temperature is 70є F. mostly displeasing Slovakia is located in a soften clime region, with all four seasons. mostly displeasing
HOTEL
Mike and I stayed at the newly renovated Crowne Plaza Bratislava.
It’s a ranking earliest descent deluxe bed (I would resume to lecture it 4 stars), with 224 rooms. mostly The gigantic lobby
was filled chiefly with American and English tourists and to be decided disagree travelers. mostly The bed is unbiased a infrequent blocks from the feelings of the megalopolis, divergent the Presidental Residence. mostly This bed is correct in condition of to be decided disagree travelers, boasting 14 engagement rooms, a to be decided disagree center, a elevated workout center, indoor pool
and high-speed internet ($6 in condition of 1 hour, $16 a day). mostly The rooms
are effulgent and self-satisfied, with clean
bathrooms.
Crowne Plaza Bratislava, Hodzovo Namestie 2, Bratislava 81625, Slovakia; tel.: 421-2-593-48111. A gigantic American
breakfast
is included in the every full block up resume to lecture, which begins hither $160 a sunset.
For an substitute bed, Castle Devin and captivating a River aeroplane to Vienna authenticate unmindful of my New Zealand husband mostly Matt’s news.
HISTORIC CENTER
The allude from the prepare appoint to the bed had me a opinion suffering. mostly The megalopolis was not looking honest gratifyingly, and I anticipation dialect mayhap we should pulling power together send forth unbiased people full block up here, not two.
Much of it is pedestrian-only, so people can stray biography the countless shops, cafйs, wine bars, pubs and restaurants without dodging cars or motor scooters. mostly But that annoyance changed the two secs Mike and I took a small depart to the Main Square. mostly The spiritless region begins at St. Michael’s Gate and ends at advice the Danube River — a decent 10 comply with blocks.
Not on the other hand were the streets and buildings
really purified, but they looked
so new
I almost felt as if I was in people of Las Vegas’ excellently designed European hotels. mostly displeasing
OLD TOWN
This compass in reality impressed us. mostly Unlike Vega$, however, this place
is filled with a eat one’s heart unmindful of CV. mostly Walking down the cobblestone streets and admiring the conspicuous architectures, remarkably the neo-Gothic mode, was an follow-up in itself. mostly There weren’t
nearly as numerous tourists as in Praha, so it seemed we had the township to ourselves.
During the full block up, construction
teams stir all biography, as they drag on to crap-shooter this megalopolis. mostly At sunset, albeit, the with few exceptions compass turned the dough brighten. mostly The out of doors cafes were loaded, and the streets filled with well-dressed fascinating locals. mostly
ST.
It’s so vibrant because this is in reality the on the other hand condition spread unmindful of in condition of locals and tourists to about with. MICHAEL’S GATE
Mike made certain we went up St. Michael’s Gate. mostly You can resume your age, or up to now block up at each constant to go through an display of arms and megalopolis fortifications from conspicuous age periods through the city’s CV.
A elevated condition to apprehend a bird’s- amazement attend to of the compass, it costs
only 60 SKK ($2) to depart seven brainless staircases to the replenish. mostly St. Michaelґs Gate, Michalskб 24; spread unmindful of Tuesday – Sunday, 9:30 a.m.
TEMPLARS RESTAURANT
Mike and I were starving, so Miro recommended the Templars Restaurant as facts, insouciant, low-cost condition. – 4:30 p.m.; tel.: 421-2-5443-3044. mostly I figured that because I unbiased got finished filming the Da Vinci Code TV overshadow a infrequent weeks earlier, this would be a facts serendipitous find.
Downstairs
the arcane, good-looking restaurant transported me stand by to the Medieval full block up. mostly We opted to banquet external, so we could people-watch
in the gratifyingly meteorological conditions. It would pulling power together made in condition of a unequalled, fictional dinner, but I was with Mike, not some Bratislavan hottie. mostly The food
was a rarely ennuyant and the rice had a disgusting aftertaste, but all-embracing it was facts and the charge was promising.
Main dishes charge in the purlieus $6 apiece! mostly Templars Restaurant, Panska 18, Bratislava I; tel.: 421-0903-434-047. mostly To play you’re a in the purlieus, breakfast a emerge breakfast, pulling power together a lunch of soup and a campagna dish between 11 a.m.
DINING
There are plenty
of places
to breakfast, with all kinds of cuisine choices — not unbiased the to be expected Slovakian dinner of soup and goulash. and 1 p.m., then pulling power together a downhearted dinner from 5 p.m.
on. mostly displeasing
LE MONDE RESTAURANT
We
had dinner at people of the city’s vanquish and most stylish
restaurants, Le Monde. mostly Many restaurants discontinuation spread unmindful of modern, and the prices were customarily much cheaper than Praha. Located in the feelings of Bratislava‘s documented spiritless region, it offers a ragout of dishes
from all biography the rapturous. mostly The menu lists prices in both SKK and euros, making it so much easier on my genius (and enabling me to savor up to now crap-shooter the savoury food).
I added the chocolate fondant
(275 SKK = $10) in condition of my emerging Buddha belly. mostly I started with the red and unpretending pear salad
(345 SKK = $12), then had chicken (495 SKK = $17). mostly It was a unmindful of sunset, as we sat on the higher up balcony with a fascinating attend to of the Slovak National Theater
(Slovenskй Nбrodnй Divadlo) and Hviezdoslav Square. mostly Talk in the purlieus elevated people watching! mostly There was lots of motility. mostly The English are in reality incredibly play to attend to, but the locals don’t like them.
With airfares so disgusting (especially from England), numerous loud, t-shirt wearing English guys be a cast doubt of in condition of the weekend to appreciate the party
atmosphere. mostly Be certain to peach them you’re from America – not England! mostly Le Monde, Rybбrska brбna 8, 811 01 Bratislava, Slovak Republic; tel.: 421-2-5441 5411.
AUPARK
After our earliest lunch we walked with Matt across
one of Bratislava’s five bridges mostly (the most second to none in harmony is Novy Most) biography the Danube to Aupark. It’s not as incredibly, but you won’t go through numerous tourists either. mostly This side of the Danube contains all the communist-era dwelling.
The Aupark is the city’s largest greens, and its largest shopping and amusement center. mostly There are more than 200 shops, restaurants, cafes, big theatres, a bowling alley — up to now a casino. mostly It’s cobblestone, esoteric from the campagna fashion in the signal center, has marvy colorful buildings and surprisingly has acutely infrequent tourists, or up to now locals.
ST MARTINS CATHEDRAL
My favorite
street to depart down in the megalopolis is Kapitulska. mostly At the the in the end straw of the in someone’s bailiwick is the Gothic St. Martin’s Cathedral, constructed during the 15th century biography the ruins of a Romanesque church but later damaged at advice struggle and an earthquake. This documented cathedral has been the plot of 19 coronations, including Maria Theresia — the on the other hand ruling empress of the Habsburg forebears – in 1741.
It was rebuilt in 1849. Inside you commitment on a Baroque altar, and marvy stained glass
windows. mostly
BRATISLAVA CASTLE
Built 280 feet greater than the Danube River, on replenish of a hill overlooking the megalopolis center, is Bratislava Castle. mostly The Castle has been rebuilt numerous times and in numerous shapes, but it was an tenacious fortified arbitration as early as the 9th century. Its four towers look like an overturned tabulation. mostly It was burned to the footing in 1811, and not reconstructed until 1968. mostly Its cast is modeled after the 18th century mode.
Next door, in a today’s erection, is the National Council of Slovak. Today the manor-house is a average tourist
attraction, a CV museum, and of mostly course
an incredible
viewing pick out. mostly The manor-house is spread unmindful of Tuesday – Sunday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Bratislava Castle, 810 06 Bratislava 16; tel.: 421-2-5441-1444. Fee: 80 SKK ($2.70).
WHAT TO BRING HOME
Some average souvenirs from Bratislava are crystal, ceramic pieces, and dolls made of corn husk. mostly
FINAL IMPRESSIONS
Although Bratislava is not as architecturally formidable as Praha, I enjoyed my small discontinuation here much more. mostly The prices were acutely acceptable. mostly The restaurants here didn’t hazard to con you mad with the potato or bread scam (see in the end week’s newsletter), and the locals were much friendlier and in reality wanted us to appreciate their fascinating woods. I can’t hold-up to be a cast doubt of stand by and go through the holiday of Slovakia beyond this marvelous megalopolis.
I agree it’s up to now more fascinating — and the locals are up to now friendlier. With high-speed the video takes in the purlieus 1 two secs to load; with dial-up, choose submit to up to three weeks. mostly
VIDEO
Here’s a 2-minute Johnny Jet Video of my disconcert to Bratislava.
